156                                    KIDNAPPED.
Ardgour upon the hither side, but shone on those of
Appin on the farther; the loch lay as still as a lake,
only the gulls were crying round the sides of it; and
the whole place seemed solemn and uncouth.
We had no sooner come to the door of Mr. Hender-
land's dwelling, than to my great surprise (for I was
now used to the politeness of Highlanders) he burst
rudely past me, dashed into the room, caught up a jar
and a small horn spoon, and began ladling snuff into
his nose in most excessive quantities. Then he had a
hearty fit of sneezing, and looked round upon me with
a rather silly smile.
"It's a vow I took." says he. "I took a vow upon
me that I wouldnae carry it. Doubtless it's a great
privation; but when I think upon the martyrs, not
only to the Scottish Covenant but to other points of
Christianity I think shame to mind it."
As soon as we had eaten (and porridge and whey
was the best of the good man's diet) he took a grave
face and said he had a duty to perform by Mr. Camp-
bell, and that was to inquire into my state of mind
towards God. I was inclined to smile at him, since the
business of the snuff; but he had not spoken long before
he brought the tears into my eyes. There are two
things that men should never weary of, goodness and
humility; we get none too much of them in this rough
world and among cold, proud people; but Mr. Hender-
land had their very speech upon his tongue. And
though I was a good deal puffed up with my adventures